I Scream, You Scream, We All Scream for the History of Ice Cream Downtown
August 4, 2026
It’s a key sound of summer — the tinkle of bells belting out “Pop Goes the Weasel” or the Mister Softee jingle signaling that a tasty ice cream cone is just around the corner. Ice cream has long been a New York summer tradition, whether from a truck or your favorite shop. And it turns out its popularity has deep roots in Lower Manhattan, stretching all the way back to the nation’s early years.
Ice cream has no single origin, and ancient civilizations in Persia, India and China, among others, were known to enjoy ice desserts. As recipes for frozen refreshments evolved and adapted to different tastes from around the world, ice cream as we know it likely arrived on North America’s shores in the early 18th century. The first known advertisement for ice cream in the United States came from British confectioner Philip Lenzi, who noted in a 1773-1774 advertisement placed in Rivington’s New York Gazetteer that his confectionary at 120 Hanover Sq. in Lower Manhattan would have: “ice cream and fruits, sugar ornaments which will soon be ready for sale.” Still, at the time, ice cream was a rare find, and wouldn’t become the beloved dessert we know today until after the American Revolution.
It did have an early fan, though. When George Washington came to live in New York during his first term as president, he and First Lady Martha Washington lived at 1 Cherry St., now the approach to the Brooklyn Bridge, before moving down to lower Broadway. Historical documents reveal that his household acquired several ice cream dishes and molds, and when the Washingtons hosted daily gatherings and receptions in their homes, Martha Washington would often serve ice cream to her guests. A letter written by Abigail Adams in 1790 shares the typical fare found at the Washingtons’ receptions: “here the company are entertained with Coffee, Tea cake, Ice creams, Lemonade…” Recipes from the period ranged from the sweet, such as strawberry and vanilla, to the savory, like parmesan. But between the difficulty of keeping ice and the labor-intensive business of harvesting and transporting ice, the dessert largely remained a treat enjoyed by wealthier circles.
Ice cream continued to be a luxury into the early 19th century. Just beyond the city’s limits, in what is now SoHo, well-heeled folks could find ice cream at the pleasure or entertainment gardens that had become popular destinations for New Yorkers. These gardens included the Samuel Fraunces-operated Vauxhall Garden (yes, that Samuel Fraunces), and they offered New Yorkers the opportunity to enjoy the fineries of the period, from spectacular fireworks displays to dishes of refreshing frozen dessert.
Pleasure gardens weren’t the only ice cream-serving spots in town though, as one revered downtown institution whose name might sound a little familiar earned an early reputation for serving these sweets to 19th-century New Yorkers. In 1827, two Swiss brothers, John (Giovanni) and Peter (Pietro) Delmonico (that’s right), opened a modest confectionery shop at 23 William St. Diarist Abram Dayton wrote of the shop: “on a board counter covered with white napkins was ranged the limited assortment of pastry.” Along with their pastries, the Delmonico brothers served coffee, cakes, bonbons and “fancy ices.” Although it is unclear whether these “fancy ices” contained dairy, a frozen treat could be expected among the Delmonicos’ offerings. By 1830, the brothers expanded their shop into a Parisian-style restaurant, beginning the eatery’s transformation into the Delmonico’s restaurant many know today.
Seeing the appeal of ice cream, entrepreneurs seized the opportunity to use the treat to market to a growing audience: women shoppers. When A.T. Stewart opened the country’s first department store on Broadway between Chambers and Reade streets in 1846, he revolutionized retail. Upper-class women flocked to Stewart’s “marble palace,” but faced a dilemma when they needed a break from shopping and a bite to eat, as many fine-dining establishments often excluded women from their dining rooms. In an attempt to cater to these wealthy women shoppers, ice cream parlors or ice creameries began popping up. Here, diners could enjoy a light meal, oysters and a frozen treat. One such “Ladies Saloon or parlor” was Taylor’s, which opened near Stewart’s department store. Taylor’s soon grew from a ladies’ ice creamery to “the largest and most elegant restaurant in the world.” To eat in Taylor’s exquisite main dining room, men had to be escorted by a woman, although there was a men’s dining space in the basement.
By the mid to late-19th century, ice cream made its way to the masses. One-cent ice cream cart vendors called “hokey pokey men” — i.e. the original Mister Softee — became fixtures throughout the city’s streets, catering to everyone from children to businessmen on Wall Street. Originally, these vendors would sell ice cream in penny licks, small glass dishes designed for customers to consume their scoops in one “lick.” These dishes would be reused without proper cleaning, raising health concerns and prompting a few vendors to reconsider the serving practice. A solution arrived in 1903, when a Wall Street ice cream vendor named Italo Marchiony received a patent for a mold to create edible ice cream cups. Marchiony’s innovation was a precursor to the ice cream cone, which made its waffled debut the following year at the 1904 St. Louis World Fair.
From the city’s first ice cream advertisement on the eve of the American Revolution, to the elegant 19th-century ice cream parlors, to the chocolate-and-vanilla-with-rainbow-sprinkles soft-serve cone from your favorite shop or truck, the treat has remained a beloved New York summer tradition — and it’s here to stay.
Theresa DeCicco-Dizon is a public historian and museum educator based in New York City.
