Po-TAY-to? Po-TAH-to? Who Cares, Daniel Boulud’s Gratin Is *So* Good

As Lower Manhattan’s resident foodies, we love to track whenever the city’s critics graciously heap praise on one of our own — be it David Chang’s curry donut (“an essay in crunch, salt and heat”) or meals included in a New York Times’ Top 10 Dishes list. Lately, we’ve been thinking about this bit from last summer: Pete Wells’s review of Le Gratin, Daniel Boulud’s house of Lyonnaise cuisine. More specifically, Wells’s adulation for the Michelin-starred chef’s potato gratin, “an indisputably great dish,” and a family recipe courtesy of Boulud’s mother from back in le old country. 

“When your restaurant is called Le Gratin, you’d better have a gratin,” wrote Wells, “and it had better be a good one.”

We can confirm that Wells is 100 percent correct, and that the gratin is an especially great side for the cold season. So for those of you who haven’t yet ventured to Boulud’s new spot, which debuted at the Beekman back in May, be sure to bookmark this starchy delight for your inevitable visit. The bistro also features classic Lyonnais specialties such as the quenelle de brochet au gratin, a rustic dish made of pike mousse crusted with cheese in a mushroom sauce, plus there’s a hefty wine list with a focus on wines from around Lyon.

photo: Bill Milne